Bremont’s dive watch swaps sober black for a stylish shade of blue.

The Bremont Supermarine All-Ceramic Deep Blue introduces a deep blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500-meter dive watch collection. This iteration offers a more relaxed take on the Supermarine line; its understated color palette and refined case craftsmanship lend a stylish, casual flair to this Sellita-powered timepiece.

Sometimes, the impact of color is surprisingly profound. Take the Bremont Supermarine, for instance: the deep blue hue of its ceramic case and bezel gives it an appearance entirely distinct from the black ceramic models in the same collection.

The deep blue tone is remarkably subtle—to my eye, it avoids the "plasticky" look that can sometimes afflict brighter blue ceramic cases. The distinct brushed texture on the case imparts a faint metallic quality, making it convincing enough at a glance to be mistaken for PVD-coated steel.

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While ceramic is not without its flaws—it can crack under extreme torsional stress or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface—its practical advantages far outweigh these rare risks. For example, its inherent scratch resistance is particularly beneficial when changing straps, as the spring bars won’t scratch the inner lugs during installation.

Another added benefit of ceramic is that watchmakers performing repairs won’t be tempted to polish it.

The strengths of the Supermarine lie in its masterful dial design and relatively slim case. The wave-patterned dial is striking yet unobtrusive, while the 13mm thickness—complemented by a flat case back—ensures that what could otherwise be a bulky watch feels understated and restrained on the wrist.

The only element I would change on the Supermarine is the "London" inscription on the dial. In my view, an indication of origin should be considered sacrosanct; therefore, the "London" label at the six o’clock position feels somewhat misleading. I have similar reservations regarding Urban Jürgensen watches—though they are excellent timepieces in their own right—given that they are manufactured in Biel/Bienne yet bear the label "Copenhagen." In short, while this is conceptually irksome, it is by no means a fatal flaw.

In terms of pricing, the Supermarine sits in a similar bracket to ceramic watches from Tudor and Chanel that utilize Kenissi-manufactured movements. The all-black Tudor Black Bay Ceramic, equipped with a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement and a longer power reserve, comes in at a slightly lower price point. At a slightly higher price, one could opt for the Chanel J12, which features a blue ceramic case—strikingly similar to that of the Supermarine—paired with a matching ceramic bracelet.

Having spent time with all three, it is fair to say that while the Sellita movement inside the Supermarine may be considered a step below those found in its peers, it still performs admirably. Compared to the Tudor, the Supermarine’s blue—though somewhat deeper in tone—offers a distinctly different impression. For instance, the matte finish on the ceramic bezel lends an almost rubber-like, soft tactile quality to what is otherwise a hard material, further enhancing the Supermarine’s relaxed, comfortable feel.

In this regard, the Supermarine bears a closer resemblance to the Chanel J12, with both sharing a very similar shade of blue. While the J12 holds an obvious advantage by including a bracelet, the Supermarine’s case features a more refined execution, characterized by polished chamfers that run along the length of the case, as well as a crown that conveys a greater sense of robustness and durability.

The Wave of Minimalism
The market is saturated with dive watches inspired by the ocean—a theme frequently explored by brands like Omega and Grand Seiko. Bremont, however, has taken a minimalist approach with its Supermarine collection. The textured, undulating pattern on the dial is likely achieved through stamping; depending on the viewing angle, these subtle wave-like motifs can either vanish entirely or emerge with striking, vivid clarity. Part of the success of this aesthetic lies in its matte finish, which allows the shadows to fully accentuate the design details.

The hour marker at 12 o'clock is shaped like an arrow—resembling an inverted version of the "broad arrow" symbol once used by the British government. This is highly fitting, given that Bremont currently holds an exclusive license to feature British military insignia on luxury timepieces.

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Although the era of military-issued mechanical watches has long since passed, Bremont continues to produce small-batch, commemorative military-themed watches upon request from service members.

A Slim Yet Capable Timepiece
Another notable feature of the Supermarine is its relatively slender profile. While a 43mm diameter is by no means small, the understated look of the deep-blue case effectively mitigates any sense of visual bulk. At 13mm thick, it is remarkably slim for a watch with a 500-meter water-resistance rating.

For comparison, the Tudor Pelagos offers the same level of water resistance with a case thickness of 14.3mm. Relative to other dive watches with similar water-resistance ratings, the Supermarine’s titanium case back—which screws into an internal titanium housing—is quite flat, ensuring the watch sits securely and unobtrusively on the wrist.

The secret to this slimness lies in the internal architecture. Unlike the brand’s Altitude collection, which utilizes the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, the Supermarine series employs a Sellita movement—specifically the latest SW300-1. Thanks to an improved mainspring barrel, this movement now offers a 56-hour power reserve.

While this falls short of the 68-hour power reserve found in the G100, the Sellita movement measures only 3.6mm in thickness—nearly 1mm thinner than the G100. While that may seem like a marginal difference, it goes a long way toward explaining the Supermarine’s remarkably slim profile. I question how often a helium escape valve is actually used in real-world scenarios, but its understated presence on a high-tech, robust dive watch like the Supermarine is certainly a welcome touch. The valve itself is positioned at 9 o'clock and sits flush with the case—much like the one found on the aforementioned Pelagos.

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Bremont Supermarine All-Ceramic Deep Blue
Watch, Reference: SM43-DT-BLCER-BK-LS (leather strap),
SM43-DT-BLCER-BK-RS (rubber
strap), or SM43-DT-BLCER-BK-NS (fabric strap).

Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13mm
Material: Ceramic and titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water Resistance: 500 meters

Movement: BB64AH (Sellita SW300-1)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Leather, rubber, or fabric, with a pin buckle